A strong brick wall of great strength bound the city Lahore. There were 13 gates for entering the city. These gates were made of wood and iron, they were closed in the evening. Below is the brief description of these gates.
It is located in North. The " Raushnai gate " Or " Gate Of Light " is located between the Royal palace and citadel. There is a very famous gali / street commonly known as the shahi mahala. The name shahi has been given after the Shahi Qila. People living here are simple. There are various food shops located around the gate. Now-a-days people are making good use of gate as they have established a public call office under the gate.
Being the principal entrance from the fort to the city, it was most frequented by the Omerahs, courtiers, royal servants, and retinues; and, as the quarters about here were profusely lighted up at night, it was called the “gate of light,” or, “gate of splendor.”
This gateway is traditionally attributed to the settlement of a clan known as ‘Bhatti Rajput’ who were made to settle inside this gate after Muslim occupation of the city by Mahmood Ghazanvi. They infact came during the period of Governorship of Malik Ayyaz. They had only agreed to reside on the condition that the gateway will be known by name of their tribe and hence it came to be known as ‘Bhati Gate’. Like the city walls it was destroyed and damaged and was built during the British period. Bhati Gate is very busy chowk as out-side, on the Circular Road, the Ravi Road Lower mall, Mohni Road, and the road coming from Bilal Ganj and Lohari all converge here. It is all along lively and awake till late in the night. There used to be theatres, cinemas and other local street shows and small entertainment’s. Its close proximity to the shrine of hazart Data Ganj Bakhsh has created a great hustle and bustle all the day especially of those visiting Data Sahib.
The Chowk is full of eatables, hotels, soft drink stands, and shops of Kababa and fish sellers, fruit vendors, and milk and lassi shops. This is the center of transport pliers and one can get buses and wagons in all directions. The garden immediately on the left of Bhati Gate and facing Data Darbar used to be the beautiful place but it has been badly spoiled by Lahore Municipal Corporation by putting up “Khokhas” and small shops and rented out for money. Consequently it has badly effected hygiene of the locality. The old ditch around at the city wall has taken the shape of open drain. It is the biggest hazard to the city dwellers. Immediately in front of Bhati Gate on road side a Tonga Stand, on the left a tubewell, wrestling club, some fruit vendors and just around the Gate a Police Station on the entry. Entering the Bhati Bazar one finds groery stores, vegetable shops, Kabab shops and kitchenware and plastic stores etc. The bazaar is narrow and it is really very difficult in the morning and after-noon to cross without rubbing shoulders.
The general cleanliness is in a poor shape, drains are open and smelly. The living conditions of the people continues in a manner as they used to live centuries back. Their typical Punjabi dialect, noise of the vendors and rush of the children and ladies in the bazaar takes one to a totally different world, as compared with the life in recently developed colonies in the city suburbs. A few paces in the Bazar, one finds on finds on right Kucha Patrangan. About 80 years from now Maulvi Asghar Ali Roohi, the teacher of Maulvi Muhammad Shafi, used to live in a house is this kucha. He was a fountainhead of learning and scholarship, and known far and wide for his ‘dars’ of Holy Quran. He had later started giving ‘dars’ in Gumti Bazar also. Dr. Maulvi Muhammad Shafi who was later principal of the Oriental College, also used to live near at the Kucha during his days as a student
A little ahead of Kucha Patrangan is “Nayan di Gali” the ‘Barber’s street. At the end of this gali there used to be a house where Shaikh Gulab Din, an Advocate used to live. Shaikh Gulab Din belonged to Sialkot and had such command of urdu that he had translated the laws of evidence and common usage.
Next to Nayan di Gali, to the right, is Mohallah Jalotian across which was the house where Dr. Muhammad Iqbal lived for several years. Adjacent to this was the Cho-Mohallah, where the Khatib of Unchi Masjid Maulvi Imamuddin lived. From Cho-Mohallah, one could go to Noor Mohallah to the left of the bazaar and to Mohallah shish Mahal on the right.
In Mohallah Shish Mahal lived Dr. Muhammad Hussain who had come to Lahore after the war of 1857. he and Dr. Rahim Khan, whose mansion was situated on Dhani ram Road, adjacent to Traders bank near Anarkali, was considered the most competent doctors of the day. Dr. Muhammad Hussain was the honorary Physician and Dr. Rahim Khan was Honorary Surgeon to the Viceroy.
From Shish Mahal onwards, you can go to Rai Bahadur Mela Ram’s Haveli of which nothing now remains. It was one of the splendors inside Bhati Gate. The Rai Bahadur and his son Rai Bahadur Ram Saran Dass, were followers of the “Sanatam Dharm” and were widely respected. The son, was a great patron of poets and writers in 1880, when Lahore was linked with Amritsar by rail, the Lahore Railway Station was built by Mian sultan of landa Bazar, Mian Muhammad Bakhsh Dol Gar of Mochi Gate and Rai Bahadur Mela Ram, were noted contractors of those days.
Rai Bahadur Mela Ram and Rai Bahadur Ram Saran Dass used to celebrate every Hindu, Sikh or Muslim festival with great ceremony. Every Sunday there used to be a musical soiree at Rai Bahadur Ram saran Dass’s bungalow outside Bhati Gate, according 5to one account. Invitees belonged to all creeds; prominent among the participants were Allama Iqbal, Sir Abdul Qadir, Sir Shahabud Din., Mian Sirajud din, Raja narindranath, Raja Sir Days Kishan kaul, Nawab Liaqat Hayat Khan, Nawab Ahmed Yar Khan Daultana, Sikandar Hayat Khan, Mian Muhammad Nasirud Din, Khan Bahadur Suyed Maratab Ali Sardar Sundar Singh Majitjia and Sardar Joginder Singh. In other Kucha, Moti Tibba, used to live Sir Abdul Qadir.
It is a fact that Lahore’s Bazar Hakiman and Amritsar’s Kattra Hakiman owned their importance to Hakim Hissamud Din, who used to practise at both places. He was the personal Hakim to the Maharajas of Kashmir and the Phulkian States. His uncanny diagnostic ability had spread his fame far and wide. Apart from this he was an upright man of God and people were as keen to seek his blessings as his medicines.
A little ahead of Hakim Shujaud Din’s house was the residence of Faqir Syed Iftikharud Din. Since he was a distinguished member of the Faqir Khana and held an important position in government, his house usually saw gathering of Government officials. A special feature of these gatherings is reputed to have been complete admixture of Iftikharud din’s Muslim Hindu friends. These include lala harkishan lal, dyal Singh Majithia, Ch. Ahmad (father of Faiz Ahmad Faiz), Mirza sultan of Tibbi, Naseerud Din nephew of Nawab Imamud din. Syed Iqbal ali shah and Syed Maratab Ali Shah, lived in this bazaar.
Moving further ahead, we would come to the Kucha of Astana Sharif where the lal Masjid built by faqir syed Jamalud Din is located. Next is a small graveyard, which has the mazaar of Faqir Syed Ghulam Mohyud Din. Opposite this kucha is the mosque built buy Hakim Abdullah Ansari, who was founder of Bazar-e-Hakiman.
On the left of the bazaar is kucha Fakir Khana where Faqir Syed Zafarud Din used to live and there be also the house where Mir Nazir Hussain Nazim lived all his life. A few paces from this is the house of Faqir Syed Hasanud Din and his ‘imambara.’ Syed Ali shah lived here: his fame as an artist needs no recounting, and despite the fact that he never adopted painting as his profession, the leading artists would come to learn the art of painting from him form Bhati gate up to Tehsil.
Then we come to kucha Tehsil where the Tehsildar of Lahore used to hold his court. Maulana Muhammad Hussain Azad also lived in this kucha for a long time. There is a bazaar here which used to be called ‘Seemyon ka Bazar’ but is now known as Judge Bazar, it was here that Sir Shahabud Din’s house and press was located and the house of Syed Mohammd latif, author of the history of Lahore.
Where Tibbi ends, on left is Bazar Shaikhupurian. In a corner of this bazaar is a house in which Muharam Ali Chishti used to live, who was the editor of ‘Rafiq-I-Hind’ and was known as a ‘King Maker’. He often used to arrange ‘Qawwali’ sessions and was known for his hospitality. There was an old haveli close ato his house where Mirza Abdur rahim lived, whose eldest son Mriza Muhammad Said was author of ‘Khawab-e-Hasti’ and ‘Yasmeen’.
In Tehsil Bazar, a little ahead of Daan Gali, there is another kucha called Bhahron Ki tharrian where three brothers Khwaja Nabi Bakhsh, Khwaja Karim Bakhsh and Khwaja Amir Bakhsh lived. The brothers were, the life and soul of the ratherings that were held at athe baithak of Hakik Shahbazs Din every evering. Their fearless criticism and their knack for discovering a person of true worth played an active role in shaping the career of many yound poets and writers. Iqbal never used to recite his verse in public till he had shown it to the three brothers. ‘Nala-e-Yateem’. Hilal-e-Eid’ ‘Tasver-e-Dard’ and ‘Sham-o-Sahir’ were all poems, which iqbal had first shown to the three elders before reciting them in the annual sessions of the Anjaman-e-Hamayat-e-Islam. Khwaja Ferozeud Din, Barrister, who was iqbal’s brother in –law, was Kh. Rahim Bakhsh’s son, and Kh. Abdul Majid, author of the voluminous Jaameul Laghat, was Kh. Karim Bakhsh’s son.
In front of Mashriqi dawakhana, established by Hakim faqir Muhammad at Hira Mandi’s junction with Barood Khana and Chowk Sarjan Singh, there was a well which was famour throughout the city for its cool water. On the edge used to sit Rai Bahadur Sanjhi Mal, bare-bodied and wearing only a dhoti, dispensing water from the well to every thirsty wayfarer. The Rai Bahadur was among the first group of graduates from the Punjab University and had joined the Provincial Civil Service. After his retirement, he had given up all wordily pleasures and spent the rest of his life in serving the needy tell old Lahoris. Due to hustle bustle in the Bhati Chowk and surrounding areas some writers call it ‘Shelsea of Lahore”.
It is the small of all gates of this great old city. It was an outlet for the refused and sweepings of the city. It is known for its big fish market and surgical goods, that is the biggest surgical market of Lahore. Another specialty of this gate is furniture polish commonly known as " Lakh ". It is the best polish for wooden furniture and the one produced here is known for its quality. People of this gate love to fly kites and a big kite market is also located here. During the Basant season there is a tough competition among the shopkeepers about the quality and sale of kites.
This gate is commonly known as the Lohari gate. When the city was rebuild by Malik Ayaz during the time of Mahmud, the quarter of the city first populated was about this gate, which together with Lahori mandi was named after the city.
A beautiful mosque names as Muslim Masjid is also located near this gate. Biggest optical market of Lahore is also located here. Many flower shops are situated here, in which flowers of every kind and specie are available. The people here are co-operative and lively. They love to eat heavy food. The tomb of Qutb-Ud-Din Aibak is also situated in Lahori gate, adjacent to Anarkali bazar.
In the brief history of the city a mention has been made of the gates in the citadel of Lahore. Emperor, Akbar the great, built the original city wall will, 12-13 gateways. The ravages of time played havoc with this wall which is almost extinct now. The city, itself, considered to be one of th4e most beautiful in the Indian sub-continent, also did not escape the pillage and plunder, During Shah Jahan’s reign according to an account by a Spanish Monk, the city was large and capacious. It was expanding and people had sort of garden houses outside. The city streets and bazaars were well ordered, decorated pavilions of various colors and large gateways. The streets were over-crowded and it was difficult to cross on a horse or camel and only in wider streets camels and elephants were seen moving the small carts. Mughals lost to the Afghans who subsequently handed over to Sikhs, and unfit as they were to rule the country, the city was spoiled and ruined. During Sikh period economic conditions worsened. The population deserted and this place of culture reached its lowest ebb.
As already mentioned, the wall has disappeared but some gateways are in existence and if one discusses Lahore and its culture it means the downtown and the old walled city. It will, therefore, be only appropriate to walk through this historical city giving brief glimpses of the city streets, houses, bazaars, and monuments as they appear today.
The main gates still in existence are Bhati Gate, Lohari Gate, Dellhi Gate, Sheranwala Gate and Kashmiri Gate. Entering the city through the Lohari Gate one has either to come through the over-crowed Anarkali Bazar or approach via Circular Road from Lower Mall and Bhati side sniffing a lot of cor dung and road dust and that too if you have a good luck to escape the pushes and beats of the tongas, carts, rickshaws, taxis, hand carts and other two wheelers. Right in front of Lohari Gate where used to be a garden around, laid by the British, one finds concrete and cement plastered buildings, shops, khokhas and stalls. On the right garlands and flower sellers. On the left is the optician market and fruit sellers sitting just under the doorway/gate. The gate is over 20 feet in width, about 20 feet in height and on upstairs some occupants permanently residing.
This gate was rebuilt for the third time in 1864 by Sir Robert Montgomery, the then Governor of Punjab. Moving into the bazaar on the right side one finds grocery shops and stores of dry eatable stuffs. On the left there are quite a few shops which sell kababs.Cutlets and cooked food. The bazaar has some really good eating points with Shaikh Chatkhara House outstanding, where almost all the items, which are cooked and sold in Lahori style. Nearby there are sweetmeat shops with oven hot bread and Nan Kulchas. The Lohari bazaar after reaching the Bokhari chowk crossing turns left, to ‘Lohari Mandi’ which on its right side has the famous ‘Haji Nehari House’ and on the left meat and a few grocery shops. The bazaar and city streets present a really deplorable scene. These are stinking and smelling. It is really very difficult for an outsider (especially visiting the city for a the first time) to breathe properly. On both sides of the bazaar open sewerage drains carry filth and refuse which includes everything.
Across the Lohari Mandi one turns left to Chowk Jhanda but just before that on the right side is ‘Kucha Kharasin’. ‘Kharas’ is a word, which, is used for a ‘Grinding Mill’. In the olden days grain was ground in this area by using the bullocks which pulled the grinding mill but these days these are operated with electric motors. There you get the fresh and pure wheat floor or ‘basin’ of grams or whatever you like. Turning left from Chowk Jhanda is an area of about one kanal which although filled with lot of paraphernalia provides a space to the residents for their marriages, and the roccasios and a space to get together. From here the street leads us towards the west and we reach the famous Victoria Girls High School which was haveli of Nau Nihal singh. This lofty haveli was one of the most magnificent buildings of Lahore City. It was built by nau Nihal singh s/o Maharaja Kharak Singh, as his private residence. It has numerous spacious chambers, halls and balconies. The roofs are decorated with mirrors. The walls are richly and tastefully ornamented with glasses and artificial flowers. After occupation of the British and even till date it is used as Girls School. The façade of Haveli has been recently spoiled where cheap painters tried to renovate at the stucco tracery work. In front of the Haveli there is another open space which is called “Maidan Bhaian wala” from where following Kucha Shah Inayat one enters Bhati Gate Bazar. On the left of Bhati Gate, which takes the visitor to the Police Station and outside, rightwards is the Shrine of Data Sahib, and, on left Mori Gate.
From Kucha Shah Inayat moving up north the bazaar is dirty and full of heaps of rubbish. Quite stingy, filthy and foul smell leads one to the Faqir Khana Museum. This museum belongs to the Faqir Family who worked as ‘Wazir’ and ‘Hakim’ of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. This old city museum has quite a few antiques, portraits, furniture pieces and other art works since those times. The building, which was constructed in traditional style with small bricks till about 15 years back, was in its original condition. Unfortunately the custodians have got it rapaired in cement plaster, whitewashed and spoiled its original architectural character. The same road goes up to Tibbi Police Station and in the same premises is located old Tehsil of Lahore and you are just in Chowk chakla now given a different name of Novelty Chowk or taranam Chowk. Just close to the gate of Police Station is the Tibbi gali, which used to house quarters of courtesans, where people used to go for a good time. Unfortunately this is now is a very bad state of decay. From Chowk Chakla westwards one finds Bazar Sheikhupurian which is now Shoe Market and some other shops.
On the right side moving eastwards one passes through the main bazaar i.e. Chakla which leads upto ‘Pani Wala Talab’. On both sides of this bazaar there are residential quarters and some singers and dancers reside upstairs. The shops are mostly small hotels and music instruments makers such as Dholak, Harmonium and tabla. Half way through this bazaar on your left is the Roshanai Gate, which leads you to the Fort and Badshahi Mosque through Hazoori Bagh. From ‘Pani Wala Talab’ coming downwards one follows Gumti Bazar. Interestingly on our visit we found artificial jewellery makers who were finishing the Bangles with hand and to most perfect precision. For one hundred bangles he would charge only Rs.100/-. This bazaar again leads towards Lohari Mandi and both sides of the bazaar are full of cloth merchants and shoemakers, fruit sellers and small hosiery shops. In between Lohari and Gumti there is the small old Masjid, Bohr Wali.
In contrast to the description narrated in the Mughal period the maintenance of the buildings appears to be quite shabby and poor. The people were generally ill dressed with pulled and drawn faces. The feeling was that they are in depression. Most probably the hygienic conditions are effecting generally health conditions. However, one of the significant aspects of attitude of residents on questioning was their hospitality. Every person would invariably ask for a cup of tea, drink or any other service. An insider revealed that Lahore has no parallel of its stingy mornings and aromatic evenings.
This gate is named after Shah Alam Bahadur Shah Zafar (the son of successor Aurangzeb). This is the biggest electronic market in Lahore. This is the known to be the biggest retail market of electronic goods. Rang Mehal is situated in this gate and in Rang Mehal "Sua bazar" is located which is well known for its jewelry shops.
The Soneri Masjid is also located in this area, the name soneri has been given to the Mosque as the tombs of this beautiful mosque are Golden (soneri) in color. Lal Masjid is also located in this area. The 'Kulfis' of this area are really delicious in taste and are very famous among the Lahoris. 'Potoras' of this area are well known for their taste and quality.
The passage from Rang Mahal to Shah Alam Gate (there is no gate here now!) is a journey of a mile through a river of throungs, chaos, disorder, noise and commercialism. Travel through “Shahalmi” by motorized vehicles is treacherous and pedestrian travel is equally dangerous.
Shahalim before the partition of the sub-continent was a hub market providing all sort of whole-sale provisions to the Mandi oriented and muffasil towns of the Punjab and beyond. The trading was in the hands of the Hindu community that did a roaring business. This place lay destroyed during the riots, which pre-dated the partition and was virtually leveled to the ground. But the new entrants, added to, spoiled and spilled over by generations of entrepreneurs over the past half century, thereafter rebuilt it. Now, not only it is brimming over the seams but also it has tentacle into side lanes and residential mohallahs. It still exists the central whole sale market which sells and supplies finished goods not only in Punjab but to a big part of the Northern areas.
All sorts of imaginable commodities can be had in this place-there is no end to the list of articles from the needle onwards which are available in Shahalmi. In historical perspective this is a place of vast trading like the Shahalmi of yonder years.
Walking through this golden mile of extreme commercial and trading activities is not without physical danger and the vehicular travel is a challenge even for the daring. However, having dared to walk through Shahalmi, the journey ends at the Cuircular Road, which in itself is another eight wonder of traffic engineering. Standing on the junction one is only a few hundred meters from Mochi Gate, where one started this journey through history, medievalism and modernity Pakistani style. This Chowk has only recently been got vacated by the Chief Minister Punjab under police action. It has slightly eased the crossing of the traffic from Shahalmi to Bansanwali Gali.
The Mochi gate, the name is the corruption of the Moti, a pearl. It was called so after the name of Pandit Moti Ram, an officer of Akbar, who resided here at that time.
The most popular place of Mochi gate is the Lal Haveli. Mochi gate is known to be the “Heart of the Lahore city ". It is the biggest political place of Lahore and many political processions have taken place here.
The people of this area love to fly kites. It is a big market of dry fruits and fire works of every kind are available here. Rafiq Sweet House is the well-known sweet shop of the area. The owner of this shop started his business here with only one shop and now there are 12 branches of Rafiq Sweet House. Among the foods available here " Kabab's " of this area are a real specialty.
Rai Bahadur Kanaha Lal in his note-worthy account titled ‘Tarikh-e-Lahore’ refers to 13 disasters which the city of Lahore suffered at the hands of invaders. The first was when Sultan Mahmood Ghazanvi occupied Lahore as Jai Paul had backed out allegeance of the sultan and helped Raja of Kallinger against Sultan Mahmood. The city remained under siege for some time and after opening of the gates there ensued a fierce battle. It is said that the city was almost depopulated, the residents ran away and during the battle a big portion of houses was burnt. It turned into ruins. Sultan Mahmood before returning to Ghazni appointed Malik ayyaz as Governor of Lahore who rehabilitated the city. It is remarked that the first ‘Mohallah’ or quarters, which was inhabited and reconstructed, was Lohari Mandi that is inside Lohari Gate.
The city suffered at the hands of numerous others and built and re-built many times until it found political stability in period of the Mughals and there was peace and prosperity. The nobility and royalty both contributed towards architectural heritage. And the city abouned in wealth and population. Emperor Akbar provided 30 feet high brick wall to athe city with 13 gates. We just had a tour of the western part through the Lohari Gate towards Lohari Mandi, Haveli Nau Nihal Singh, Tibbi, Hira Mandi and Gumti Bazar. The second round was from Bhati Gate to Tibbi and the third is now from Mochi Gate to Shahalmi.
Mochi is infact a corruption of Moti or Pearl. It was so called after the name of a Himdu employee, Moti Ram, who was an officer of the Emperor Akbar and resided at athe gate and was Incharge of the Security. The corruption in the name ocured during the Sikh period when it came to be called “Mochi” the gate was in bad shape during the Sikh period and was demolished early during the British period and bricks sold. It does not appear to have been re-built thereafter.
Mochi, Akbari Shahalmi and Taxali Gates are not present any more. Delhi, Lohari, Bhati and sheranwala gates exist, some in the old, some renovated and some under siege by squatters and Qabza groups. Beyond these Gates are labyrinths of streets and mazes of basars known by their old names, interconnected and interwoven. Taking a tour of these lanes and by-lanes, one can happily get lost in them, perhaps it is like getting lost in history. For a long time in the past, Mochi gate was entered through the passage or bazaar on either sidew of which tow two old derelict barracks housing the police force and athe station house stood. These have been pulled down giving way to a rectangular box building, a type, that has become commonplace in the post independence ear. May be it can be identified as post-independence architecture, or a actually a non-architecture building fashion.
The common entrance to Mochi gate has now become heavily overcrowded and encroached upon by all sorts of permanently and temporary shops, shacks and shanties all doing roaring business, of course. The encroachments have obliterated the entrance so that coming by the Circular Road, in a car or rickshaw, one is likely to miss or not place the Mochi Gate.
The entry poijts is lacked with shops selling nuts, grams, sweets and dry fruit nuts. Immediately adjoining is the police station building, the office on the right side and the residential quarters on the left. The construction is very recent and in brick and box type. This leads us into the land direct to the mosque of Muhammad Salah. Anyhow before entering the bazaar itself, one sees on the ritght hand side athe huge structure of Mughal Haveli which is tyhpical of old big houses with a large wooden gate and entrance rampart. At the entrance of the Mochi Gate Bazar, actually at athe confluence of Bazar Lal Khoo and Bazar Sadakaran, is perched a small beautiful mosque atop the shops. This is Masjid Muhammad saleh. Muhammad Saleh was a diwan in the Punjab province during Shah Jahan’s era. This is a three domed mosque built in 1659 A.D. or around 1078 Hijri, five steps lead from the Bazar atoa the mosque courtyard and two at athe back lead down to Kucha “Chauhattian”. Since the level of the road that runs through the bazaar has been raised, it is now higher than the level of the shops located uknder the maoque.
All along the bazaar, which is nothing but a narrow passage, not allowing more than three or four persons to pass through, are shops on either side selling firecrackers, kites, dry kitchen provisions, toffees, sweets and such stuff. This narrow passage leads one past athe Lal Khoo and on the Chowk Nawab Sahib. Astride the Lal Khoo are the old, about 80 to 100 years, Kabab shops and in front a very famous sweetmeat shop. These two shops still provide the traditional old menus the old Lahori tastes of these eatables are maintained and prepared with well-guarded recipes.
The “Lal Khoo” is now disused. But out of faith or love for a saint who might have been associated with this place, people light candles and oil lamps at the perch. Right in front of the “Lal Khoo” is the Qazi Khana” which is partially covered and leads to the main mohallahs of the Mochi Gate. At the turn of century in Qazi Kkhana used to live Maulana Muhammad Hussain Azad, the author of “Aab-I-Hayat” and a teacher of Oriental Studies at the Government College Lahore. Also he aqas one of the initiators of free style verse in urdu. This laureate lies buried in the Karbala Gamay shah area, at a stone’s throw from the Government College.
Walking through the Lal Khoo bazaar is like traversing through mediaevalism. Without being covered, it gies the impression of an Arab Souq. Because of the narrowness flanked on either side by tallish over-projecting abodes, the sunlight hardly ever reaches it. The shopkeepers are seen squattaing amongst their overflowing shop wares, doing a roaring whole-sale bhuusiness of their commodities – commodities whaich end up in remote villages and mufassil towns of the Punjab. The Lal Khoo bazaar ends at Chowk Nawab Sahib from which on the right one detours to Akbari Mandi and on the left atoa the main mohallah and streets of Mochi Gate and straight on towards “chauhatta” Mufti Baqar. On the left are two historic buildings the “Mubarak” Haveli and the “Nisar” Haveli’ Mubarak Haveli si the place where Ranjit Singh is said to have tricked shah Shuja, the deprived ruler of Kabul into parting with the “Koh-I-Noor” which now forms part of the crown jewels stacked away in the tower of London.
Mubarak Haveli is a building in the pseudo Mughal style with hefty wooden gates leading into the foreyard which leads to the main courtyard in the center of which is a huge water tank. All around on the first storey are the living quarters, their arched windows looking over the courtyard. From these two havelis on to the “Chauhatta” is the bazaar with many large multi-storeyed brick buildings with baithhaks brimming over to the adjoining platform (Tharras) which provided open-air places for friendly meetings and discourse across the street.
Arched doors and windows with extended porches are athe features of these buildings. This locality in the yonder past must have been the abode of many an affluent of the society. Chau (four) Hatta (big shops) Mufti Baqar must have been a four shops possession of a court official at one time. From theis place a few arterial bazaars with side lanes emanate in the same pattarn which we have b seen on the way from Mochi Gate. An old papal tree under which there is a mausoleum which marks the Chau-Hatta. The characteristics of this narrow bazaar are a few mausoleums here and there, some revfeered with daily candle lighting, some with an annual urs and some just left in solitude. The two oldest establishments in Chau Hatta being run by fourth generation heirs are a bakery and Pakora shop. From the Chau-Hatta onwards, the bazaar again narrows down and then widens again past Kattra Wali Shah that is a big enclosed and gated Mohallah of over 1000 residents. Here again is a papal tree under which there is another mausoleum and still another two, a few yards onwards with beautiful canopies atop and well cared after structures. These graves are attributed to the soldiers of Ghaznavide armies, who fell on the land of the Hanood and were buried there.
Pressing onwards, one comes to Chowk Ghazi Illum-ud-Din Shaheed leading to Rang Mahal through Bazaar Sirianwala and on right-land side to bazaar Tezabian (acid marker). This Chow once had a very big well called “Boharwala Khoo” which provided cold water to the community. This well is now covered over by shops. In this Chowk also stll remains a hundred years old sweetmeat shop of Haji Shahib whose “Qatlama” was a talk of the town once. Bazar Sirianwala must be a seventh and a half wonder of the world shops selling goat trotters, goats head etc. Shopkeepers sit around these commodities and over the shop-floors serving thousands of Lahoris.
Onwards one again passes covered bazaar narrowing itself towards “Kasaira Bazaar” in which pots, pans and utensils are sold. The display of utensils previously of brass and now of aluminum scrap, plastic and steel, provide a masterly attraction. At one time noises emanating from the craftsmen’s hammers and anvils, giving shape to utensils was a part of the scene. Rounding to the left through this bazaar, one finds oneself in Chowk Rang Mahal from the narrowness of the streets and bazaars that one has covered from Mochi Gate onwards. This is an open place, Rang Mahla Mission High School, now of course, Government Rang Mahal High School where once taught great teachers like K.L. Rulia-Ram, Kahn Singh and Khadim Rizvi. This centurion of a school building is in a state of dilapidation and decay as is generally with our education system. Alas!
The Akbari gate named after ' Jala-Ud-Din Muhammad Akbar ', who rebuilds the town and the citadel. Close to this gate the emperor also founded a market, which was named " Akbari Mandi ". It is the biggest retail market of Lahore, in which food grains of all kinds are available.
At present times its a main market for spices , herbs and ,many food items . Traders come here from all over the country.
The Delhi gate is named as Delhi gate because of its opening on the high road from Delhi to Lahore. A big cloth market is located around Delhi gate. It is a big retail market of clothes. A variety of other shops are also located near the Delhi gate, known as “Chota bazar ".
Marching on the Circular Road from Shahalmi, Mochi Gate, Akbari Gate (no longer in existence except the Akbari Mandi), just opposite Landa Bazar on takes a left-hand shops, some hand carts and stalls and fruit vedors, ring sellers, opticians, bangle sellers and so on. The original gateway of the Mughal period was destroyed during the Sikh rule. The gate now in existence was re-built by the British. The gate has an entry space of over 20 feet in width and in circular shape from within, with rooms all around. The length and width of the gate and the area on the first space can be judged from the fact that on the left side, on the first floor of the gate, there is a full-fledged High School for Girls functioning. On the right side the area is in occupation of quarters.
Adjoining, left-hand stair wall of the gate, are located beautiful Hammams maed by Wazir Khan, the Governor of Lahore during Shah Jahan,s period. These Hammams have a built up area of over 2000 sq.ft. that is preserved now. Whatever the use of Hammams during the Mughal period these are beautiful pieces of architecture, designed for a purpose with arrangement of light and air. Inside the domes are nicely done up in stucco-tracery. The patterns of flowers, paintings of the brids, leaves and flowers are simply superb. These Hammams which had been lying neglected were renovated and reopened for public in 1991 by the present Chief Minister. There exists a small library and a reading room in a part of the monument. A visit to the building leads one into the city life of 16th century that is no more. Coming out of the Hammams, taking left turn, one moves in the bazaar towards Masjid Wazir Khan.
In the bazaar about 100 meters from the Delhi Gate there comes a Gate which is called ‘Sufaid Gate’. Nothing is either written or known about the background except that this is an entry point to Chowk Wazir Khan from where the bazaar leads to Chowk Purrani Kotwali. The Sufaid Gate is constructed of old small burnt bricks in lime mortar and should be coming down any moment, as it is in a really bad shape. One left side of Chowk Wazir Khan is Masjid Wazir Khan, in front Chowk Purani Kotwali behind which a modern market has been built. We have separately discussed the beauty of Masjid Wazir Khan as an architectural monument that is one of the two best mosques in the world. However, a visit at site sadly reflects about the care and attention the State and public attaches to this heritage. It is utterly neglected, without any maintenance and as if there was none to lookafter.
Continuing this way it may lose half of its life. Further Qabza groups are multiplying the encroachments and natural decaying factors are causes of its deterioration. Continuing with the bazaar from Chowk Wazir Khan one will find that there is a upward height. This is because Lahore was founded on a mound and subsequently built and re-built on the accumulated debris of many centuries. From Chowk Purani Kotwali the bazaar leads towards Chuna Mandi. All the houses both or right and left have been converted into shaps. This bazaar which is now being renovated and converted into proper shops had its old name as ‘Bazar Rada Tailian’ replaced by Azam Cloth Market’s extension. Infact Azam Colth Market has its extension known as Kashmir Block in this bazaar. The bazaar an street at the widest points is not more that 8-10 feet and with open drains running on both side of the walls leaving very little space for movement. In parts sewerage system has been laid but does not appear to be working.
On reaching upto Chowk Jamia Masjid, Chuna Mandi from where on the righ side ‘ Bangla Ayub Road’ leads us out to Sheranwala and Yakki Gates. On the same road Mosque Maulana Ahmad Ali is located. There is a historic Sikh Monument ‘Gurdawara Janam Asthan Sri Guru Ram Das Jee’. Guru Ram Das Je was the fourth Guru of Sikhs and was founder of the Sikh sacred city of Amritsar. From Chuna Mandi on the left side the streel leads towards Rang Mahal and at about 200 yards, on right, the bazar ends on the Kashmiri Gate. Straight on, the bazar is slightly wider but in a bad state of repairs due to sewerage line and demolitions of “Tharras’ by the civic authorities, it leads one to the Masjid Gate of the Fort that is just opposite Masjid Mariam Zamani. On left is the historic Haveli Raaja Dhian Singh. From Haveli Dhian Singh a tortuous and circuitous bazar leads towards Sheranwala Gate where a portion of the city wall still exists and then are found the Circular Road in front dividing the city and the Badami Bagh locality.
The Chuna Mandi has been historical place of Haveli Dhian Singh who was a Commander of Ranjit Singh and his son Hira Singh very near to the Maharaja. This Haveli saw many upheavala on the fall of Sikh rule. The Haveli was converted into a Zilla School that later on became Central Model School and is located on Lower Mall Road now. Thw Haveli was also used as premises of the first Government College Lahore and now is the Nawaz Sharif Girls College for Lahore.
This completes our tour of the city. Before winding up it may be added that the city is situated about 2 miles from the river Ravi. It is built in the form of a parallelogram. The area within the walls exclusive of the citadel is 461 acres. It stands on an alluvial plain traversed by river. The city is elevated and has a high ridge than its running east and west on its north side. Most feel that the elevated ground has a large component of debris of centuries. The River Ravi is no longer mighty. With its diversion by India it is not a danger for the city that people have constructed up to its banks. Practically it is now reduced to a big drain taking all the sewerage water of the city. When we talk of the city and mention is peculiar features, it means the old walled city located within the city gate. The city is an irregular trapezium. It widens on the north. Only a part of the city wall exists around Sheranwala Gate and the remaining has just disappeared with lofty houses instead.
The Yakki gate, originally known as " Zaki Gate" , that being the name of a saint. Who, according to a tradition, fell fighting against the " Tataraies " who invaded Lahore. Zaki Pir fought them with great courage and bravery . During the fight his head was cut off from his body at the gate but his body kept on fighting for some time, and at last fell in the quarter of the city closed by. One tomb of this great saint is build where his head fell and the other tomb is where his body fell.
There is school for blinds situated near Yakki Gate. There are a number of havelis located in and around the gate. A number of temples are also located in and around Yakki Gate.
It is also known as " Khiziri gate ", the river in former times followed by the city walls and the ferry was near this part. The gate was, therefore, named as Khiziri after the name of Khizz Elias, the patron saint according to the Mohammedan belief. Ranjit Singh kept here two domesticated lions in a cage, and the gate came to be called as " Sheranwala gate" Or " Lion's gate".
The kashmiri gate, so named, because it faces the direction of Kashmir. A big retail market of children shoes is located in this gate. There is a big beautiful girl's college is also located here. This college is built in an old haveli of a shah. Which is a beautiful example of Mughal architecture.
The Masti gate , the name is the corruption of " Masjidi " or pertaining to a mosque. The mosque of Mariam Makhani, the mother of Akbar, is in its immediate vicinity. The people here love to eat heavy food and there are many shops of foodstuffs located here. Milk shops of this area are very famous and the milk available here is full of taste as they add many things to it, which make its taste a lot better then the original milk.
The Taxali gate, so called from the Taxal, or royal mint, having been in its neighborhood during the period of the Mahomedan Emperors. Archaeologists have conjectured, not without some grounds, that the name bears an allusion to the ancient city of Taxila, noted for one of the most meritorious acts of Budha’s almsgiving, when he bestowed his head in charity, and identified by General Cunningham with the ruins of Shah-ki-dheri, in Rawalpindi.
However, this may be, it is clear that the name must have been derived from the Takkas, who were once the undisputed masters of the Panjab, and who still exist in considerable numbers in the hills between the Jhelum and the Ravi.
1) Raushnai Gate
It is located in North. The " Raushnai gate " Or " Gate Of Light " is located between the Royal palace and citadel. There is a very famous gali / street commonly known as the shahi mahala. The name shahi has been given after the Shahi Qila. People living here are simple. There are various food shops located around the gate. Now-a-days people are making good use of gate as they have established a public call office under the gate.
Being the principal entrance from the fort to the city, it was most frequented by the Omerahs, courtiers, royal servants, and retinues; and, as the quarters about here were profusely lighted up at night, it was called the “gate of light,” or, “gate of splendor.”
2) Bhatti Gate
This gateway is traditionally attributed to the settlement of a clan known as ‘Bhatti Rajput’ who were made to settle inside this gate after Muslim occupation of the city by Mahmood Ghazanvi. They infact came during the period of Governorship of Malik Ayyaz. They had only agreed to reside on the condition that the gateway will be known by name of their tribe and hence it came to be known as ‘Bhati Gate’. Like the city walls it was destroyed and damaged and was built during the British period. Bhati Gate is very busy chowk as out-side, on the Circular Road, the Ravi Road Lower mall, Mohni Road, and the road coming from Bilal Ganj and Lohari all converge here. It is all along lively and awake till late in the night. There used to be theatres, cinemas and other local street shows and small entertainment’s. Its close proximity to the shrine of hazart Data Ganj Bakhsh has created a great hustle and bustle all the day especially of those visiting Data Sahib.
The Chowk is full of eatables, hotels, soft drink stands, and shops of Kababa and fish sellers, fruit vendors, and milk and lassi shops. This is the center of transport pliers and one can get buses and wagons in all directions. The garden immediately on the left of Bhati Gate and facing Data Darbar used to be the beautiful place but it has been badly spoiled by Lahore Municipal Corporation by putting up “Khokhas” and small shops and rented out for money. Consequently it has badly effected hygiene of the locality. The old ditch around at the city wall has taken the shape of open drain. It is the biggest hazard to the city dwellers. Immediately in front of Bhati Gate on road side a Tonga Stand, on the left a tubewell, wrestling club, some fruit vendors and just around the Gate a Police Station on the entry. Entering the Bhati Bazar one finds groery stores, vegetable shops, Kabab shops and kitchenware and plastic stores etc. The bazaar is narrow and it is really very difficult in the morning and after-noon to cross without rubbing shoulders.
The general cleanliness is in a poor shape, drains are open and smelly. The living conditions of the people continues in a manner as they used to live centuries back. Their typical Punjabi dialect, noise of the vendors and rush of the children and ladies in the bazaar takes one to a totally different world, as compared with the life in recently developed colonies in the city suburbs. A few paces in the Bazar, one finds on finds on right Kucha Patrangan. About 80 years from now Maulvi Asghar Ali Roohi, the teacher of Maulvi Muhammad Shafi, used to live in a house is this kucha. He was a fountainhead of learning and scholarship, and known far and wide for his ‘dars’ of Holy Quran. He had later started giving ‘dars’ in Gumti Bazar also. Dr. Maulvi Muhammad Shafi who was later principal of the Oriental College, also used to live near at the Kucha during his days as a student
A little ahead of Kucha Patrangan is “Nayan di Gali” the ‘Barber’s street. At the end of this gali there used to be a house where Shaikh Gulab Din, an Advocate used to live. Shaikh Gulab Din belonged to Sialkot and had such command of urdu that he had translated the laws of evidence and common usage.
Next to Nayan di Gali, to the right, is Mohallah Jalotian across which was the house where Dr. Muhammad Iqbal lived for several years. Adjacent to this was the Cho-Mohallah, where the Khatib of Unchi Masjid Maulvi Imamuddin lived. From Cho-Mohallah, one could go to Noor Mohallah to the left of the bazaar and to Mohallah shish Mahal on the right.
In Mohallah Shish Mahal lived Dr. Muhammad Hussain who had come to Lahore after the war of 1857. he and Dr. Rahim Khan, whose mansion was situated on Dhani ram Road, adjacent to Traders bank near Anarkali, was considered the most competent doctors of the day. Dr. Muhammad Hussain was the honorary Physician and Dr. Rahim Khan was Honorary Surgeon to the Viceroy.
From Shish Mahal onwards, you can go to Rai Bahadur Mela Ram’s Haveli of which nothing now remains. It was one of the splendors inside Bhati Gate. The Rai Bahadur and his son Rai Bahadur Ram Saran Dass, were followers of the “Sanatam Dharm” and were widely respected. The son, was a great patron of poets and writers in 1880, when Lahore was linked with Amritsar by rail, the Lahore Railway Station was built by Mian sultan of landa Bazar, Mian Muhammad Bakhsh Dol Gar of Mochi Gate and Rai Bahadur Mela Ram, were noted contractors of those days.
Rai Bahadur Mela Ram and Rai Bahadur Ram Saran Dass used to celebrate every Hindu, Sikh or Muslim festival with great ceremony. Every Sunday there used to be a musical soiree at Rai Bahadur Ram saran Dass’s bungalow outside Bhati Gate, according 5to one account. Invitees belonged to all creeds; prominent among the participants were Allama Iqbal, Sir Abdul Qadir, Sir Shahabud Din., Mian Sirajud din, Raja narindranath, Raja Sir Days Kishan kaul, Nawab Liaqat Hayat Khan, Nawab Ahmed Yar Khan Daultana, Sikandar Hayat Khan, Mian Muhammad Nasirud Din, Khan Bahadur Suyed Maratab Ali Sardar Sundar Singh Majitjia and Sardar Joginder Singh. In other Kucha, Moti Tibba, used to live Sir Abdul Qadir.
It is a fact that Lahore’s Bazar Hakiman and Amritsar’s Kattra Hakiman owned their importance to Hakim Hissamud Din, who used to practise at both places. He was the personal Hakim to the Maharajas of Kashmir and the Phulkian States. His uncanny diagnostic ability had spread his fame far and wide. Apart from this he was an upright man of God and people were as keen to seek his blessings as his medicines.
A little ahead of Hakim Shujaud Din’s house was the residence of Faqir Syed Iftikharud Din. Since he was a distinguished member of the Faqir Khana and held an important position in government, his house usually saw gathering of Government officials. A special feature of these gatherings is reputed to have been complete admixture of Iftikharud din’s Muslim Hindu friends. These include lala harkishan lal, dyal Singh Majithia, Ch. Ahmad (father of Faiz Ahmad Faiz), Mirza sultan of Tibbi, Naseerud Din nephew of Nawab Imamud din. Syed Iqbal ali shah and Syed Maratab Ali Shah, lived in this bazaar.
Moving further ahead, we would come to the Kucha of Astana Sharif where the lal Masjid built by faqir syed Jamalud Din is located. Next is a small graveyard, which has the mazaar of Faqir Syed Ghulam Mohyud Din. Opposite this kucha is the mosque built buy Hakim Abdullah Ansari, who was founder of Bazar-e-Hakiman.
On the left of the bazaar is kucha Fakir Khana where Faqir Syed Zafarud Din used to live and there be also the house where Mir Nazir Hussain Nazim lived all his life. A few paces from this is the house of Faqir Syed Hasanud Din and his ‘imambara.’ Syed Ali shah lived here: his fame as an artist needs no recounting, and despite the fact that he never adopted painting as his profession, the leading artists would come to learn the art of painting from him form Bhati gate up to Tehsil.
Then we come to kucha Tehsil where the Tehsildar of Lahore used to hold his court. Maulana Muhammad Hussain Azad also lived in this kucha for a long time. There is a bazaar here which used to be called ‘Seemyon ka Bazar’ but is now known as Judge Bazar, it was here that Sir Shahabud Din’s house and press was located and the house of Syed Mohammd latif, author of the history of Lahore.
Where Tibbi ends, on left is Bazar Shaikhupurian. In a corner of this bazaar is a house in which Muharam Ali Chishti used to live, who was the editor of ‘Rafiq-I-Hind’ and was known as a ‘King Maker’. He often used to arrange ‘Qawwali’ sessions and was known for his hospitality. There was an old haveli close ato his house where Mirza Abdur rahim lived, whose eldest son Mriza Muhammad Said was author of ‘Khawab-e-Hasti’ and ‘Yasmeen’.
In Tehsil Bazar, a little ahead of Daan Gali, there is another kucha called Bhahron Ki tharrian where three brothers Khwaja Nabi Bakhsh, Khwaja Karim Bakhsh and Khwaja Amir Bakhsh lived. The brothers were, the life and soul of the ratherings that were held at athe baithak of Hakik Shahbazs Din every evering. Their fearless criticism and their knack for discovering a person of true worth played an active role in shaping the career of many yound poets and writers. Iqbal never used to recite his verse in public till he had shown it to the three brothers. ‘Nala-e-Yateem’. Hilal-e-Eid’ ‘Tasver-e-Dard’ and ‘Sham-o-Sahir’ were all poems, which iqbal had first shown to the three elders before reciting them in the annual sessions of the Anjaman-e-Hamayat-e-Islam. Khwaja Ferozeud Din, Barrister, who was iqbal’s brother in –law, was Kh. Rahim Bakhsh’s son, and Kh. Abdul Majid, author of the voluminous Jaameul Laghat, was Kh. Karim Bakhsh’s son.
In front of Mashriqi dawakhana, established by Hakim faqir Muhammad at Hira Mandi’s junction with Barood Khana and Chowk Sarjan Singh, there was a well which was famour throughout the city for its cool water. On the edge used to sit Rai Bahadur Sanjhi Mal, bare-bodied and wearing only a dhoti, dispensing water from the well to every thirsty wayfarer. The Rai Bahadur was among the first group of graduates from the Punjab University and had joined the Provincial Civil Service. After his retirement, he had given up all wordily pleasures and spent the rest of his life in serving the needy tell old Lahoris. Due to hustle bustle in the Bhati Chowk and surrounding areas some writers call it ‘Shelsea of Lahore”.
3) Mori Gate
It is the small of all gates of this great old city. It was an outlet for the refused and sweepings of the city. It is known for its big fish market and surgical goods, that is the biggest surgical market of Lahore. Another specialty of this gate is furniture polish commonly known as " Lakh ". It is the best polish for wooden furniture and the one produced here is known for its quality. People of this gate love to fly kites and a big kite market is also located here. During the Basant season there is a tough competition among the shopkeepers about the quality and sale of kites.
4) Lahori Gate
This gate is commonly known as the Lohari gate. When the city was rebuild by Malik Ayaz during the time of Mahmud, the quarter of the city first populated was about this gate, which together with Lahori mandi was named after the city.
A beautiful mosque names as Muslim Masjid is also located near this gate. Biggest optical market of Lahore is also located here. Many flower shops are situated here, in which flowers of every kind and specie are available. The people here are co-operative and lively. They love to eat heavy food. The tomb of Qutb-Ud-Din Aibak is also situated in Lahori gate, adjacent to Anarkali bazar.
In the brief history of the city a mention has been made of the gates in the citadel of Lahore. Emperor, Akbar the great, built the original city wall will, 12-13 gateways. The ravages of time played havoc with this wall which is almost extinct now. The city, itself, considered to be one of th4e most beautiful in the Indian sub-continent, also did not escape the pillage and plunder, During Shah Jahan’s reign according to an account by a Spanish Monk, the city was large and capacious. It was expanding and people had sort of garden houses outside. The city streets and bazaars were well ordered, decorated pavilions of various colors and large gateways. The streets were over-crowded and it was difficult to cross on a horse or camel and only in wider streets camels and elephants were seen moving the small carts. Mughals lost to the Afghans who subsequently handed over to Sikhs, and unfit as they were to rule the country, the city was spoiled and ruined. During Sikh period economic conditions worsened. The population deserted and this place of culture reached its lowest ebb.
As already mentioned, the wall has disappeared but some gateways are in existence and if one discusses Lahore and its culture it means the downtown and the old walled city. It will, therefore, be only appropriate to walk through this historical city giving brief glimpses of the city streets, houses, bazaars, and monuments as they appear today.
The main gates still in existence are Bhati Gate, Lohari Gate, Dellhi Gate, Sheranwala Gate and Kashmiri Gate. Entering the city through the Lohari Gate one has either to come through the over-crowed Anarkali Bazar or approach via Circular Road from Lower Mall and Bhati side sniffing a lot of cor dung and road dust and that too if you have a good luck to escape the pushes and beats of the tongas, carts, rickshaws, taxis, hand carts and other two wheelers. Right in front of Lohari Gate where used to be a garden around, laid by the British, one finds concrete and cement plastered buildings, shops, khokhas and stalls. On the right garlands and flower sellers. On the left is the optician market and fruit sellers sitting just under the doorway/gate. The gate is over 20 feet in width, about 20 feet in height and on upstairs some occupants permanently residing.
This gate was rebuilt for the third time in 1864 by Sir Robert Montgomery, the then Governor of Punjab. Moving into the bazaar on the right side one finds grocery shops and stores of dry eatable stuffs. On the left there are quite a few shops which sell kababs.Cutlets and cooked food. The bazaar has some really good eating points with Shaikh Chatkhara House outstanding, where almost all the items, which are cooked and sold in Lahori style. Nearby there are sweetmeat shops with oven hot bread and Nan Kulchas. The Lohari bazaar after reaching the Bokhari chowk crossing turns left, to ‘Lohari Mandi’ which on its right side has the famous ‘Haji Nehari House’ and on the left meat and a few grocery shops. The bazaar and city streets present a really deplorable scene. These are stinking and smelling. It is really very difficult for an outsider (especially visiting the city for a the first time) to breathe properly. On both sides of the bazaar open sewerage drains carry filth and refuse which includes everything.
Across the Lohari Mandi one turns left to Chowk Jhanda but just before that on the right side is ‘Kucha Kharasin’. ‘Kharas’ is a word, which, is used for a ‘Grinding Mill’. In the olden days grain was ground in this area by using the bullocks which pulled the grinding mill but these days these are operated with electric motors. There you get the fresh and pure wheat floor or ‘basin’ of grams or whatever you like. Turning left from Chowk Jhanda is an area of about one kanal which although filled with lot of paraphernalia provides a space to the residents for their marriages, and the roccasios and a space to get together. From here the street leads us towards the west and we reach the famous Victoria Girls High School which was haveli of Nau Nihal singh. This lofty haveli was one of the most magnificent buildings of Lahore City. It was built by nau Nihal singh s/o Maharaja Kharak Singh, as his private residence. It has numerous spacious chambers, halls and balconies. The roofs are decorated with mirrors. The walls are richly and tastefully ornamented with glasses and artificial flowers. After occupation of the British and even till date it is used as Girls School. The façade of Haveli has been recently spoiled where cheap painters tried to renovate at the stucco tracery work. In front of the Haveli there is another open space which is called “Maidan Bhaian wala” from where following Kucha Shah Inayat one enters Bhati Gate Bazar. On the left of Bhati Gate, which takes the visitor to the Police Station and outside, rightwards is the Shrine of Data Sahib, and, on left Mori Gate.
From Kucha Shah Inayat moving up north the bazaar is dirty and full of heaps of rubbish. Quite stingy, filthy and foul smell leads one to the Faqir Khana Museum. This museum belongs to the Faqir Family who worked as ‘Wazir’ and ‘Hakim’ of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. This old city museum has quite a few antiques, portraits, furniture pieces and other art works since those times. The building, which was constructed in traditional style with small bricks till about 15 years back, was in its original condition. Unfortunately the custodians have got it rapaired in cement plaster, whitewashed and spoiled its original architectural character. The same road goes up to Tibbi Police Station and in the same premises is located old Tehsil of Lahore and you are just in Chowk chakla now given a different name of Novelty Chowk or taranam Chowk. Just close to the gate of Police Station is the Tibbi gali, which used to house quarters of courtesans, where people used to go for a good time. Unfortunately this is now is a very bad state of decay. From Chowk Chakla westwards one finds Bazar Sheikhupurian which is now Shoe Market and some other shops.
On the right side moving eastwards one passes through the main bazaar i.e. Chakla which leads upto ‘Pani Wala Talab’. On both sides of this bazaar there are residential quarters and some singers and dancers reside upstairs. The shops are mostly small hotels and music instruments makers such as Dholak, Harmonium and tabla. Half way through this bazaar on your left is the Roshanai Gate, which leads you to the Fort and Badshahi Mosque through Hazoori Bagh. From ‘Pani Wala Talab’ coming downwards one follows Gumti Bazar. Interestingly on our visit we found artificial jewellery makers who were finishing the Bangles with hand and to most perfect precision. For one hundred bangles he would charge only Rs.100/-. This bazaar again leads towards Lohari Mandi and both sides of the bazaar are full of cloth merchants and shoemakers, fruit sellers and small hosiery shops. In between Lohari and Gumti there is the small old Masjid, Bohr Wali.
In contrast to the description narrated in the Mughal period the maintenance of the buildings appears to be quite shabby and poor. The people were generally ill dressed with pulled and drawn faces. The feeling was that they are in depression. Most probably the hygienic conditions are effecting generally health conditions. However, one of the significant aspects of attitude of residents on questioning was their hospitality. Every person would invariably ask for a cup of tea, drink or any other service. An insider revealed that Lahore has no parallel of its stingy mornings and aromatic evenings.
5) Shah-Alam Gate
This gate is named after Shah Alam Bahadur Shah Zafar (the son of successor Aurangzeb). This is the biggest electronic market in Lahore. This is the known to be the biggest retail market of electronic goods. Rang Mehal is situated in this gate and in Rang Mehal "Sua bazar" is located which is well known for its jewelry shops.
The Soneri Masjid is also located in this area, the name soneri has been given to the Mosque as the tombs of this beautiful mosque are Golden (soneri) in color. Lal Masjid is also located in this area. The 'Kulfis' of this area are really delicious in taste and are very famous among the Lahoris. 'Potoras' of this area are well known for their taste and quality.
The passage from Rang Mahal to Shah Alam Gate (there is no gate here now!) is a journey of a mile through a river of throungs, chaos, disorder, noise and commercialism. Travel through “Shahalmi” by motorized vehicles is treacherous and pedestrian travel is equally dangerous.
Shahalim before the partition of the sub-continent was a hub market providing all sort of whole-sale provisions to the Mandi oriented and muffasil towns of the Punjab and beyond. The trading was in the hands of the Hindu community that did a roaring business. This place lay destroyed during the riots, which pre-dated the partition and was virtually leveled to the ground. But the new entrants, added to, spoiled and spilled over by generations of entrepreneurs over the past half century, thereafter rebuilt it. Now, not only it is brimming over the seams but also it has tentacle into side lanes and residential mohallahs. It still exists the central whole sale market which sells and supplies finished goods not only in Punjab but to a big part of the Northern areas.
All sorts of imaginable commodities can be had in this place-there is no end to the list of articles from the needle onwards which are available in Shahalmi. In historical perspective this is a place of vast trading like the Shahalmi of yonder years.
Walking through this golden mile of extreme commercial and trading activities is not without physical danger and the vehicular travel is a challenge even for the daring. However, having dared to walk through Shahalmi, the journey ends at the Cuircular Road, which in itself is another eight wonder of traffic engineering. Standing on the junction one is only a few hundred meters from Mochi Gate, where one started this journey through history, medievalism and modernity Pakistani style. This Chowk has only recently been got vacated by the Chief Minister Punjab under police action. It has slightly eased the crossing of the traffic from Shahalmi to Bansanwali Gali.
6) Mochi Gate
The Mochi gate, the name is the corruption of the Moti, a pearl. It was called so after the name of Pandit Moti Ram, an officer of Akbar, who resided here at that time.
The most popular place of Mochi gate is the Lal Haveli. Mochi gate is known to be the “Heart of the Lahore city ". It is the biggest political place of Lahore and many political processions have taken place here.
The people of this area love to fly kites. It is a big market of dry fruits and fire works of every kind are available here. Rafiq Sweet House is the well-known sweet shop of the area. The owner of this shop started his business here with only one shop and now there are 12 branches of Rafiq Sweet House. Among the foods available here " Kabab's " of this area are a real specialty.
Rai Bahadur Kanaha Lal in his note-worthy account titled ‘Tarikh-e-Lahore’ refers to 13 disasters which the city of Lahore suffered at the hands of invaders. The first was when Sultan Mahmood Ghazanvi occupied Lahore as Jai Paul had backed out allegeance of the sultan and helped Raja of Kallinger against Sultan Mahmood. The city remained under siege for some time and after opening of the gates there ensued a fierce battle. It is said that the city was almost depopulated, the residents ran away and during the battle a big portion of houses was burnt. It turned into ruins. Sultan Mahmood before returning to Ghazni appointed Malik ayyaz as Governor of Lahore who rehabilitated the city. It is remarked that the first ‘Mohallah’ or quarters, which was inhabited and reconstructed, was Lohari Mandi that is inside Lohari Gate.
The city suffered at the hands of numerous others and built and re-built many times until it found political stability in period of the Mughals and there was peace and prosperity. The nobility and royalty both contributed towards architectural heritage. And the city abouned in wealth and population. Emperor Akbar provided 30 feet high brick wall to athe city with 13 gates. We just had a tour of the western part through the Lohari Gate towards Lohari Mandi, Haveli Nau Nihal Singh, Tibbi, Hira Mandi and Gumti Bazar. The second round was from Bhati Gate to Tibbi and the third is now from Mochi Gate to Shahalmi.
Mochi is infact a corruption of Moti or Pearl. It was so called after the name of a Himdu employee, Moti Ram, who was an officer of the Emperor Akbar and resided at athe gate and was Incharge of the Security. The corruption in the name ocured during the Sikh period when it came to be called “Mochi” the gate was in bad shape during the Sikh period and was demolished early during the British period and bricks sold. It does not appear to have been re-built thereafter.
Mochi, Akbari Shahalmi and Taxali Gates are not present any more. Delhi, Lohari, Bhati and sheranwala gates exist, some in the old, some renovated and some under siege by squatters and Qabza groups. Beyond these Gates are labyrinths of streets and mazes of basars known by their old names, interconnected and interwoven. Taking a tour of these lanes and by-lanes, one can happily get lost in them, perhaps it is like getting lost in history. For a long time in the past, Mochi gate was entered through the passage or bazaar on either sidew of which tow two old derelict barracks housing the police force and athe station house stood. These have been pulled down giving way to a rectangular box building, a type, that has become commonplace in the post independence ear. May be it can be identified as post-independence architecture, or a actually a non-architecture building fashion.
The common entrance to Mochi gate has now become heavily overcrowded and encroached upon by all sorts of permanently and temporary shops, shacks and shanties all doing roaring business, of course. The encroachments have obliterated the entrance so that coming by the Circular Road, in a car or rickshaw, one is likely to miss or not place the Mochi Gate.
The entry poijts is lacked with shops selling nuts, grams, sweets and dry fruit nuts. Immediately adjoining is the police station building, the office on the right side and the residential quarters on the left. The construction is very recent and in brick and box type. This leads us into the land direct to the mosque of Muhammad Salah. Anyhow before entering the bazaar itself, one sees on the ritght hand side athe huge structure of Mughal Haveli which is tyhpical of old big houses with a large wooden gate and entrance rampart. At the entrance of the Mochi Gate Bazar, actually at athe confluence of Bazar Lal Khoo and Bazar Sadakaran, is perched a small beautiful mosque atop the shops. This is Masjid Muhammad saleh. Muhammad Saleh was a diwan in the Punjab province during Shah Jahan’s era. This is a three domed mosque built in 1659 A.D. or around 1078 Hijri, five steps lead from the Bazar atoa the mosque courtyard and two at athe back lead down to Kucha “Chauhattian”. Since the level of the road that runs through the bazaar has been raised, it is now higher than the level of the shops located uknder the maoque.
All along the bazaar, which is nothing but a narrow passage, not allowing more than three or four persons to pass through, are shops on either side selling firecrackers, kites, dry kitchen provisions, toffees, sweets and such stuff. This narrow passage leads one past athe Lal Khoo and on the Chowk Nawab Sahib. Astride the Lal Khoo are the old, about 80 to 100 years, Kabab shops and in front a very famous sweetmeat shop. These two shops still provide the traditional old menus the old Lahori tastes of these eatables are maintained and prepared with well-guarded recipes.
The “Lal Khoo” is now disused. But out of faith or love for a saint who might have been associated with this place, people light candles and oil lamps at the perch. Right in front of the “Lal Khoo” is the Qazi Khana” which is partially covered and leads to the main mohallahs of the Mochi Gate. At the turn of century in Qazi Kkhana used to live Maulana Muhammad Hussain Azad, the author of “Aab-I-Hayat” and a teacher of Oriental Studies at the Government College Lahore. Also he aqas one of the initiators of free style verse in urdu. This laureate lies buried in the Karbala Gamay shah area, at a stone’s throw from the Government College.
Walking through the Lal Khoo bazaar is like traversing through mediaevalism. Without being covered, it gies the impression of an Arab Souq. Because of the narrowness flanked on either side by tallish over-projecting abodes, the sunlight hardly ever reaches it. The shopkeepers are seen squattaing amongst their overflowing shop wares, doing a roaring whole-sale bhuusiness of their commodities – commodities whaich end up in remote villages and mufassil towns of the Punjab. The Lal Khoo bazaar ends at Chowk Nawab Sahib from which on the right one detours to Akbari Mandi and on the left atoa the main mohallah and streets of Mochi Gate and straight on towards “chauhatta” Mufti Baqar. On the left are two historic buildings the “Mubarak” Haveli and the “Nisar” Haveli’ Mubarak Haveli si the place where Ranjit Singh is said to have tricked shah Shuja, the deprived ruler of Kabul into parting with the “Koh-I-Noor” which now forms part of the crown jewels stacked away in the tower of London.
Mubarak Haveli is a building in the pseudo Mughal style with hefty wooden gates leading into the foreyard which leads to the main courtyard in the center of which is a huge water tank. All around on the first storey are the living quarters, their arched windows looking over the courtyard. From these two havelis on to the “Chauhatta” is the bazaar with many large multi-storeyed brick buildings with baithhaks brimming over to the adjoining platform (Tharras) which provided open-air places for friendly meetings and discourse across the street.
Arched doors and windows with extended porches are athe features of these buildings. This locality in the yonder past must have been the abode of many an affluent of the society. Chau (four) Hatta (big shops) Mufti Baqar must have been a four shops possession of a court official at one time. From theis place a few arterial bazaars with side lanes emanate in the same pattarn which we have b seen on the way from Mochi Gate. An old papal tree under which there is a mausoleum which marks the Chau-Hatta. The characteristics of this narrow bazaar are a few mausoleums here and there, some revfeered with daily candle lighting, some with an annual urs and some just left in solitude. The two oldest establishments in Chau Hatta being run by fourth generation heirs are a bakery and Pakora shop. From the Chau-Hatta onwards, the bazaar again narrows down and then widens again past Kattra Wali Shah that is a big enclosed and gated Mohallah of over 1000 residents. Here again is a papal tree under which there is another mausoleum and still another two, a few yards onwards with beautiful canopies atop and well cared after structures. These graves are attributed to the soldiers of Ghaznavide armies, who fell on the land of the Hanood and were buried there.
Pressing onwards, one comes to Chowk Ghazi Illum-ud-Din Shaheed leading to Rang Mahal through Bazaar Sirianwala and on right-land side to bazaar Tezabian (acid marker). This Chow once had a very big well called “Boharwala Khoo” which provided cold water to the community. This well is now covered over by shops. In this Chowk also stll remains a hundred years old sweetmeat shop of Haji Shahib whose “Qatlama” was a talk of the town once. Bazar Sirianwala must be a seventh and a half wonder of the world shops selling goat trotters, goats head etc. Shopkeepers sit around these commodities and over the shop-floors serving thousands of Lahoris.
Onwards one again passes covered bazaar narrowing itself towards “Kasaira Bazaar” in which pots, pans and utensils are sold. The display of utensils previously of brass and now of aluminum scrap, plastic and steel, provide a masterly attraction. At one time noises emanating from the craftsmen’s hammers and anvils, giving shape to utensils was a part of the scene. Rounding to the left through this bazaar, one finds oneself in Chowk Rang Mahal from the narrowness of the streets and bazaars that one has covered from Mochi Gate onwards. This is an open place, Rang Mahla Mission High School, now of course, Government Rang Mahal High School where once taught great teachers like K.L. Rulia-Ram, Kahn Singh and Khadim Rizvi. This centurion of a school building is in a state of dilapidation and decay as is generally with our education system. Alas!
7) Akbari Gate
The Akbari gate named after ' Jala-Ud-Din Muhammad Akbar ', who rebuilds the town and the citadel. Close to this gate the emperor also founded a market, which was named " Akbari Mandi ". It is the biggest retail market of Lahore, in which food grains of all kinds are available.
At present times its a main market for spices , herbs and ,many food items . Traders come here from all over the country.
8) Delhi Gate
The Delhi gate is named as Delhi gate because of its opening on the high road from Delhi to Lahore. A big cloth market is located around Delhi gate. It is a big retail market of clothes. A variety of other shops are also located near the Delhi gate, known as “Chota bazar ".
Marching on the Circular Road from Shahalmi, Mochi Gate, Akbari Gate (no longer in existence except the Akbari Mandi), just opposite Landa Bazar on takes a left-hand shops, some hand carts and stalls and fruit vedors, ring sellers, opticians, bangle sellers and so on. The original gateway of the Mughal period was destroyed during the Sikh rule. The gate now in existence was re-built by the British. The gate has an entry space of over 20 feet in width and in circular shape from within, with rooms all around. The length and width of the gate and the area on the first space can be judged from the fact that on the left side, on the first floor of the gate, there is a full-fledged High School for Girls functioning. On the right side the area is in occupation of quarters.
Adjoining, left-hand stair wall of the gate, are located beautiful Hammams maed by Wazir Khan, the Governor of Lahore during Shah Jahan,s period. These Hammams have a built up area of over 2000 sq.ft. that is preserved now. Whatever the use of Hammams during the Mughal period these are beautiful pieces of architecture, designed for a purpose with arrangement of light and air. Inside the domes are nicely done up in stucco-tracery. The patterns of flowers, paintings of the brids, leaves and flowers are simply superb. These Hammams which had been lying neglected were renovated and reopened for public in 1991 by the present Chief Minister. There exists a small library and a reading room in a part of the monument. A visit to the building leads one into the city life of 16th century that is no more. Coming out of the Hammams, taking left turn, one moves in the bazaar towards Masjid Wazir Khan.
In the bazaar about 100 meters from the Delhi Gate there comes a Gate which is called ‘Sufaid Gate’. Nothing is either written or known about the background except that this is an entry point to Chowk Wazir Khan from where the bazaar leads to Chowk Purrani Kotwali. The Sufaid Gate is constructed of old small burnt bricks in lime mortar and should be coming down any moment, as it is in a really bad shape. One left side of Chowk Wazir Khan is Masjid Wazir Khan, in front Chowk Purani Kotwali behind which a modern market has been built. We have separately discussed the beauty of Masjid Wazir Khan as an architectural monument that is one of the two best mosques in the world. However, a visit at site sadly reflects about the care and attention the State and public attaches to this heritage. It is utterly neglected, without any maintenance and as if there was none to lookafter.
Continuing this way it may lose half of its life. Further Qabza groups are multiplying the encroachments and natural decaying factors are causes of its deterioration. Continuing with the bazaar from Chowk Wazir Khan one will find that there is a upward height. This is because Lahore was founded on a mound and subsequently built and re-built on the accumulated debris of many centuries. From Chowk Purani Kotwali the bazaar leads towards Chuna Mandi. All the houses both or right and left have been converted into shaps. This bazaar which is now being renovated and converted into proper shops had its old name as ‘Bazar Rada Tailian’ replaced by Azam Cloth Market’s extension. Infact Azam Colth Market has its extension known as Kashmir Block in this bazaar. The bazaar an street at the widest points is not more that 8-10 feet and with open drains running on both side of the walls leaving very little space for movement. In parts sewerage system has been laid but does not appear to be working.
On reaching upto Chowk Jamia Masjid, Chuna Mandi from where on the righ side ‘ Bangla Ayub Road’ leads us out to Sheranwala and Yakki Gates. On the same road Mosque Maulana Ahmad Ali is located. There is a historic Sikh Monument ‘Gurdawara Janam Asthan Sri Guru Ram Das Jee’. Guru Ram Das Je was the fourth Guru of Sikhs and was founder of the Sikh sacred city of Amritsar. From Chuna Mandi on the left side the streel leads towards Rang Mahal and at about 200 yards, on right, the bazar ends on the Kashmiri Gate. Straight on, the bazar is slightly wider but in a bad state of repairs due to sewerage line and demolitions of “Tharras’ by the civic authorities, it leads one to the Masjid Gate of the Fort that is just opposite Masjid Mariam Zamani. On left is the historic Haveli Raaja Dhian Singh. From Haveli Dhian Singh a tortuous and circuitous bazar leads towards Sheranwala Gate where a portion of the city wall still exists and then are found the Circular Road in front dividing the city and the Badami Bagh locality.
The Chuna Mandi has been historical place of Haveli Dhian Singh who was a Commander of Ranjit Singh and his son Hira Singh very near to the Maharaja. This Haveli saw many upheavala on the fall of Sikh rule. The Haveli was converted into a Zilla School that later on became Central Model School and is located on Lower Mall Road now. Thw Haveli was also used as premises of the first Government College Lahore and now is the Nawaz Sharif Girls College for Lahore.
This completes our tour of the city. Before winding up it may be added that the city is situated about 2 miles from the river Ravi. It is built in the form of a parallelogram. The area within the walls exclusive of the citadel is 461 acres. It stands on an alluvial plain traversed by river. The city is elevated and has a high ridge than its running east and west on its north side. Most feel that the elevated ground has a large component of debris of centuries. The River Ravi is no longer mighty. With its diversion by India it is not a danger for the city that people have constructed up to its banks. Practically it is now reduced to a big drain taking all the sewerage water of the city. When we talk of the city and mention is peculiar features, it means the old walled city located within the city gate. The city is an irregular trapezium. It widens on the north. Only a part of the city wall exists around Sheranwala Gate and the remaining has just disappeared with lofty houses instead.
9) Yakki Gate
The Yakki gate, originally known as " Zaki Gate" , that being the name of a saint. Who, according to a tradition, fell fighting against the " Tataraies " who invaded Lahore. Zaki Pir fought them with great courage and bravery . During the fight his head was cut off from his body at the gate but his body kept on fighting for some time, and at last fell in the quarter of the city closed by. One tomb of this great saint is build where his head fell and the other tomb is where his body fell.
There is school for blinds situated near Yakki Gate. There are a number of havelis located in and around the gate. A number of temples are also located in and around Yakki Gate.
10) Sheranwala Gate
It is also known as " Khiziri gate ", the river in former times followed by the city walls and the ferry was near this part. The gate was, therefore, named as Khiziri after the name of Khizz Elias, the patron saint according to the Mohammedan belief. Ranjit Singh kept here two domesticated lions in a cage, and the gate came to be called as " Sheranwala gate" Or " Lion's gate".
11) Kashmiri Gate
The kashmiri gate, so named, because it faces the direction of Kashmir. A big retail market of children shoes is located in this gate. There is a big beautiful girl's college is also located here. This college is built in an old haveli of a shah. Which is a beautiful example of Mughal architecture.
12) Masti Gate
The Masti gate , the name is the corruption of " Masjidi " or pertaining to a mosque. The mosque of Mariam Makhani, the mother of Akbar, is in its immediate vicinity. The people here love to eat heavy food and there are many shops of foodstuffs located here. Milk shops of this area are very famous and the milk available here is full of taste as they add many things to it, which make its taste a lot better then the original milk.
13) Taxali Gate
The Taxali gate, so called from the Taxal, or royal mint, having been in its neighborhood during the period of the Mahomedan Emperors. Archaeologists have conjectured, not without some grounds, that the name bears an allusion to the ancient city of Taxila, noted for one of the most meritorious acts of Budha’s almsgiving, when he bestowed his head in charity, and identified by General Cunningham with the ruins of Shah-ki-dheri, in Rawalpindi.
However, this may be, it is clear that the name must have been derived from the Takkas, who were once the undisputed masters of the Panjab, and who still exist in considerable numbers in the hills between the Jhelum and the Ravi.
